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Your Dog Is Changing Your Brain (And Your Gut) For The Better

Our dogs bring countless joys into our lives. From excited tail wags at the door to comforting snuggles on the sofa, our pups are truly part of the family. But what if I told you that your dog isn’t just making you happier, they may be making you more caring and sociable through an invisible, microscopic link? Recent research from Japan’s Azabu University has revealed a promising possibility: living with a dog might alter our microbiome (the ecosystem of bacteria inside us) in ways that actually promote better mental health and social behavior! The study focused on adolescents aged 12 to 14. Researchers found that teenagers who lived with dogs had significantly lower scores on social problems, aggressive behavior, and social withdrawal compared to their non-dog-owning peers. People who lived with dogs ranked as less socially withdrawn and behaved less aggressively. “Adolescent children who keep dogs exhibit higher mental well-being, and we also found that dog ownership alters the gut microbiota,” said Dr. Takefumi Kikusui, a study co-author and animal behaviorist at Azabu University. “Since the gut microbiota influences behavior through the gut-brain axis, we conducted this experiment.”Saliva samples revealed distinct differences in the microbial makeup of teens, including higher levels of certain bacteria like Streptococcus, which have been previously linked to reduced depressive symptoms. Interested in digging deeper, the research team then conducted a follow-up experiment. They transplanted oral microbes from people who lived with dogs and people who were dog-free into germ-free laboratory mice. The results were fascinating. The mice that received microbes from “dog people” exhibited behaviors that demonstrated greater empathy and sociability. For example, in one test, these mice were more likely to approach and try to assist a trapped cage-mate. They also spent more time sniffing unfamiliar mice, a sign of increased social interest. The gut microbiome is a busy community of microorganisms living primarily in our intestines. This community doesn’t just help us digest food; it also influences our immune system and, crucially, communicates with our brain. This communication pathway is known as the Gut-Brain Axis. The bacteria in our gut can produce various chemicals, including anti-inflammatory compounds and even neurotransmitters, which directly impact our mental state and behavior. The theory is that dogs, through licks and close contact, expose us to their diverse microbial communities. These microbes then travel to our gut, influencing our own microbiome and potentially boosting the production of those beneficial chemicals that support mental well-being and encourage empathetic, social responses. While the researchers agree that more studies are needed, incorporating different geographic locations, the research adds a new layer to the already well-documented benefits of life with a dog. They also acknowledge that adopting a dog isn’t a guaranteed solution for everyone. Bringing a dog into your home is a significant commitment that should be taken seriously. However, these findings also reinforce the idea that the bond between humans and dogs is profound, right down to a microscopic level. It’s a heartfelt reminder that the companionship you share with your dog is good for you, both inside and out! Join the PetGuide community. Get the latest pet news and product recommendations by subscribing to our newsletter here.

When Will My Kitten’s Wild, Playful Energy Start to Settle?

Living with a young kitten is one of life’s most incredible, most hilarious adventures. One moment, they’re curled up purring sweetly on your chest. The next, they’re launching themselves off the back of the sofa, transforming into a tiny, bitey, pouncing blur of pure energy and chaos. This phase, filled with midnight zoomies, intense wrestling matches with toy mice, and often, little love bites aimed right at your ankles, is adorable. But it can also be overwhelming.If you’ve ever found yourself asking, “Is this much energy normal?” or slightly pleading, “When will this wild phase finally settle down?” you are absolutely not alone.This intense, chaotic energy is a perfectly normal, necessary part of your kitten’s development. They aren’t trying to cause trouble; they are simply hardwired to practice the hunting and survival skills that they will need as they grow. The good news is that kittenhood is a temporary, fleeting stage, and you have the power to positively influence their behavior now to shape a calmer, well-adjusted companion later.In this guide, I’ll share the reasons behind the chaos, map out a timeline for when you can expect things to slow down, and share tips and tricks I learned firsthand for safely and positively managing this incredible burst of energy from my own kittens.Understanding the Key Kitten Developmental StagesIf you’re currently living with a furry whirlwind who operates on two speeds (sleeping and “warp speed”), you’re likely researching when things might calm down. Understanding your kitten’s developmental milestones helps frame this high-energy phase not as a challenge, but as a critical learning period. The Peak of Playful Chaos The “Tween” phase lasts from approximately 8 weeks to 6 months old. This is typically when you see the most intense and sustained energy. The energy associated with this phase is characterized by relentless, explosive play sessions that often seem to come out of nowhere. This is the age of sudden “attack mode’ on moving targets (like your feet) and perfecting their acrobatic skills. This window is critical for rapid physical growth, motor skill refinement, and social learning. Every pounce, stalk, and wrestle is practice for life-sustaining life skills. If your kitten was in a litter during this time, they were learning vital lessons, such as bite inhibition and appropriate social cues, from their mother and siblings. If not, they need your guidance to help them understand these concepts. Adolescence and the TaperingThis next phase, known as the “Teen” phase, ranges from 6 months to 1 year old. Just like human teenagers, adolescent cats are exploring their boundaries, but their physical energy begins to shift and consolidate. You may notice that play sessions are slightly less constant, but they can be more intense when they happen. This is the phase when they start to become more interested in high-level activities, like climbing, serious sprinting, and complex problem-solving. While physical growth slows, mental and emotional development accelerates through the “Teen” phase. They are cementing their place in your household, developing a sense of territory, and testing which behaviors are acceptable (and which are rewarding). Consistency in training now is vital, as the habits they form here often stick with them for life.Young Adult and Settling In You’ve finally reached the home stretch! This stage (approximately 1 to 2 years old) is when most pet parents finally breathe a sigh of relief. Your kitten is truly becoming a full-grown cat. The frantic, disorganized energy gives way to a more predictable routine. Play sessions are often still necessary and highly enjoyed. They are typically concentrated in the morning and evening, interspersed with long, satisfying naps throughout the day. The major growth spurts are over, their metabolism stabilizes, and they have mastered the basic skills needed for survival (hunting, navigating, etc.). Their personality has largely formed. By the time your cat hits two years old, you will likely have a good understanding of their adult energy level. Key Considerations: Genetics and EnvironmentIt’s important to remember that these are general guidelines, but every cat is an individual. Breed characteristics play a role. A high-energy Bengal or Abyssinian will likely remain more active than a placid Ragdoll. Your cat’s environment can also have an impact. A kitten in a sterile, boring environment will often have more restless energy than one in an enriched home with plenty of playtime and vertical space. Finally, some cats simply have a more energetic personality. My girl Theia should be settling into her adult routine, but still has that crazy kitten energy.The Science Behind the Zoomies It’s easy to look at a kitten tearing across the living room carpet and assume they’re simply hyperactive, but their wild energy is actually a display of their instincts. Every jump, chase, and ambush is deeply rooted in their feline biology. They are not intentionally causing chaos; they are driven by innate needs. Play is Practice To a kitten, playing is a simulated, high-stakes training session for survival. They are learning and practicing the behaviors a successful adult hunter needs: The Pounce and Stalk: This slow creep, wiggle, and sudden burst of movement is practice for ambush tactics. They are honing their timing, distance calculation, and coordination skills, which they would need to capture fast-moving prey in the wild. The Bite and Scratch: When they grab a toy (or your foot) and use their rear claws (the “bunny kick”), they are practicing the maneuver needed to dismember prey. The bit, often referred to as the “kill bite” in training, is being refined for accuracy and pressure. The Zoomie: These sudden, often late-night, bursts of uncontrollable running are believed to be an instinctual discharge of pent-up energy. If a hunt was unsuccessful or if they have excess energy from a rest period, the body demands an immediate, full-speed sprint. Brain and Body Development The rapid growth your kitten experiences throughout this stage of life fuels the external chaos you see. Their body systems are developing at a fast rate, which means they need to learn to navigate the world in this “new” body. Motor Skill Refinement: Continuous practice of running and jumping helps them learn their physical limits. They are constantly improving balance, agility, and depth perception. They need to test their bodies to understand the physical world around them. High Metabolism and Energy Density: Kittens have a significantly higher metabolic rate than adult cats because they are constantly building muscle, bone, and organs. This means they produce and burn energy much faster, leading to intense, short bursts of activity followed by sudden, deep naps. The Misdirected Target: YouThis is often the most frustrating behavior for pet parents, when the play turns aggressive toward human hands and feet. This is almost always a teaching issue, not an aggression issue. In a litter, kittens learn how to bite by playing with their siblings. If one bites too hard, the injured sibling will yelp and stop playing. This instant negative feedback teaches them bite inhibition. Kittens removed from their litter or mother before the ideal age (around 12 weeks) often miss out on this vital lesson. If they don’t have this learning moment, they don’t know how hard is “too hard.” Without a sibling to wrestle, they see your wiggling fingers under a blanket or your moving toes as the most convenient, enticing “prey.” By reacting to the bite, you engage with them and inadvertently reward the behavior, making it more likely to happen again.

Is Your Dog at a Healthy Weight? Using the Body Condition Score (BCS)

You want your dog to have the best possible quality of life, and that means focusing on both their happiness and their physical health. We talk a lot about the importance of good nutrition and exercise, but one critical piece of this puzzle is often overlooked or misunderstood: maintaining a healthy body weight.Unfortunately, a significant number of dogs are carrying a little too much extra baggage (and I’m not talking about the emotional kind). Many pet parents simply don’t recognize the sign until it’s too late, and their beloved pup is faced with the consequences of the excess weight. This includes health complications that can be life-changing or even life-threatening.The good news is that there is a simple tool available to all pet parents to help figure out if your pup is at their ideal weight. Better yet, it’s free! You just need to learn the basics of the Body Condition Score (BCS). By the end of this post, you’ll understand how to use the BCS like a professional, understand the risks of being too heavy or too light, and know what steps you need to take to ensure your dog thrives at their optimal, healthy body weight.What is the Body Condition Score (BCS)?The Body Condition Score (BCS) is, quite simply, the veterinary community’s gold standard for evaluating how much fat a dog is carrying. Think of it like a scale for body composition, which is much more accurate and meaningful than a traditional weight measurement alone. Why? Two dogs can weigh exactly the same, but because of their body shape, one might be lean and muscular, while the other might be carrying significant excess fat. The BCS focuses on the weight your dog is carrying, not just the numbers on the scale, and assesses whether the weight your dog is carrying is right for their individual body.The BCS isn’t something you can measure with a tape measure or a simple eyeball test. Instead, it requires a combination of visual observation and, most importantly, touch to determine where your dog falls on an overall scale.Visual Assessment: Looking at your dog from above and from the side to check for a defined waistline and abdominal tuck.The Touch Test: Gently running your hands along your dog’s ribcage, spine, and tail base to feel the underlying fat coverage.While both are important, the touch test in particular is crucial because fur, especially on fluffier or longer-haired breeds, can hide a lot. A dog may look slim, but the touch test will tell the true story.The Two Recognized BCS ScalesWhile the goal of both scales is the same (finding the sweet spot of optimal health for your dog), your veterinarian may prefer one of the two recognized BCS scales. For the sake of easily assessing your dog at home, I will focus on the simpler 5-Point Scale, but it’s helpful to know the more precise 9-Point Scale exists as well. The 5-Point Scale: Ranges from 1 to 5. A score of 1 indicates the dog is emaciated, and a score of 5 indicates the dog is obese. The ideal, healthy score is 3.The 9-Point Scale: Ranges from 1 to 9. A score of 1 indicates the dog is severely underweight, and a score of 9 indicates the dog is severely obese. The ideal, healthy range is 4 or 5.The difference between a BCS 4 and a BCS 5 on the 9-point scale is very subtle, which is why I recommend dedicated pet parents use the more practical 5-Point Scale for monthly check-ins. If you hit a clear BCS of 3 out of 5, your dog is in the ideal, healthy range.How to Assess Your Dog’s BCSThe beauty of the Body Condition Score is that it relies on three simple, tangible checkpoints that you can easily test at home. You’re looking for a specific blend of visual cues and physical touch sensations. Get comfortable, call your dog over, make sure you have treats close at hand, and I’ll walk you through the three key areas you need to check: the ribs, the waist, and the abdomen.The Ribs (Touch Test)This is the most crucial part of the entire assessment, as it tells you exactly how much fat lies beneath the skin, regardless of the fur that could be masking it. Place both of your hands lightly on your dog’s side, directly over their rib cage, and gently run your fingers along the ribs, moving back and forth. You should feel them easily, almost like the knuckles on the back of your hand when your hand is flat, but they shouldn’t be protruding, those same knuckles when you’re making a fist.BCS 1-2 (Underweight): The ribs are easily visible and feel sharp, prominent, and bony, with little to no fat covering.BCS 3 (Ideal): You can easily feel the ribs with just a light touch, but you cannot see them visibly popping out (except perhaps on short-haired breeds when they breathe deeply). They should feel like they have a thin layer of velvety fat or “suede” over them.BCS 4-5 (Overweight): You have to press firmly to feel the ribs through a noticeable spongy layer of fat. If you struggle to count them or have to hunt for them, the fat layer is too thick.The Waist (Visual/Overhead Test)Your dog’s waistline is the equivalent of their hourglass figure. It should be distinct and defined when you’re looking down at them from above. Stand directly over your dog while they are standing straight (not slouched or lying down) and look down at their back.BSC 1-2 (Underweight): The tuck-in is exaggerated, and the bones of the spine and hips might be sharply visible or prominent.BCS 3 (Ideal): You should see a clear and discernible waist. Their body should tuck in narrowly just behind the rib cage and before the hips. It should look like an hourglass or a gentle curve inward.BCS 4-5 (Overweight): There is no defined waist. The torso looks broad, oval, or blocky, extending straight from the ribs to the hips like a barrel.The Abdomen (Visual/Side Test)This view checks for the “tuck” under your dog's body, confirms their body shape, and identifies any signs of sagging that could indicate they are carrying excess weight. Stand to the side of your dog while they are standing. Focus on the area between the rib cage and the hind legs.BCS 1-2 (Underweight): The tuck is severe and exaggerated, often making their stomach look concave.BCS 3 (Ideal): You should see a significant abdominal tuck or upward slope of the belly when viewed from the side. This is most pronounced in athletic and deep-chested breeds (like Greyhounds or German Shepherds) but should be present in all breeds.BCS 4-5 (Overweight): There is no abdominal tuck. The belly hangs straight down or even sags. This is sometimes called a “pendulous abdomen” and indicates significant fat is being stored in the area.By putting all three checks together (the feel of the ribs, the view of the waist from above, and the tuck from the side), you can confidently assign your dog a BCS. If you consistently find yourself in the “Ideal BCS 3” category across all three points, congratulations, you’re doing a fantastic job! If your assessment leans toward BCS 4, 5, 1, or 2, it’s time to understand exactly why that matters and what you should do next.

Novel Protein Diets: What’s the Real Difference, and Should You Switch

There are few things in life more frustrating than watching your dog or cat struggle with chronic discomfort, that constant, relentless scratching, the endless paw licking, the recurring ear infections, or the unpredictable tummy troubles. If you’ve narrowed down the possibilities and determined you are likely dealing with a food sensitivity or allergy, you’re not alone. Managing food sensitivities can feel overwhelming, especially if you have a picky pet. Reading the label on their favorite food leaves you with a whole list of potential offenders. The truth is, the majority of food sensitivities are triggered by a handful of common protein sources that our pets have been exposed to throughout their lives. This is why your veterinarian may recommend switching to a novel protein diet. But what is a “novel” protein? Will switching to something like venison or rabbit truly make a difference? Is this really the right choice for your best friend? In this guide, I’ll break down the growing popularity of novel protein diets, including why they are effective at bringing relief, what options are most commonly used, and how to successfully navigate choosing the best diet for your pet. What Exactly is a “Novel” Protein? If your veterinarian has introduced the term “novel protein,” it might sound like something from a science fiction movie. Your veterinarian is suggesting a complete overhaul of the protein source in your dog’s food, and the reason, as I mentioned already, is about what they are exposed to. Or, more importantly, what they are no longer being exposed to. In the context of pet food and food sensitivities, the term novel simply means new. Specifically, it refers to a protein source that your individual dog or cat has never eaten before. The protein must be completely unfamiliar to your dog’s immune system. If your dog has been eating a chicken-and-rice diet for 5 years, chicken is considered a common protein. If they have never had duck, then duck is a novel protein. The majority of food-related allergic reactions in pets are caused by common ingredients they eat regularly, such as beef, chicken, dairy, and wheat. With most of these being protein sources, our focus generally starts looking at that aspect of their diet. It’s not that these proteins are inherently bad, but because they are eaten frequently, their immune system has had time to develop a sensitivity. Choosing a Novel ProteinThe range of protein options available for our pets has expanded drastically in recent years. With so many options, it’s easier than ever to find one that your pet has never previously encountered. Less Common Meats: Venison, bison, rabbit, or kangaroo. These proteins are increasingly used in specialized diets. Alternative Poultry/Fish: Duck, quail, or specific, less-common fish, such as catfish or certain forms of whitefish. New Protein Options: Even more unique options are becoming available, such as insect-based protein (like crickets or black soldier fly larvae), which is highly novel for almost all pets. Novel Protein Diets vs. Limited-Ingredient Diets While these two terms are often linked or used interchangeably in error, it’s important to understand that they are not the same thing. They address different aspects of simplifying your pet’s diet. A limited-ingredient diet focuses on reducing the total number of ingredients in food. The goal is to simplify the ingredient list to make it easier to pinpoint or exclude allergy triggers. A novel protein diet focuses specifically on the type of protein the food contains. The two concepts often overlap. A very effective elimination diet will typically be a food that is a limited-ingredient diet and features a novel protein. For example, a single-source rabbit and potato formula. However, you could also purchase a chicken-based limited-ingredient diet, which, if your pet has eaten chicken before, is not novel to them. Always check the protein source against your pet’s dietary history (including both food and treats). Why Does Novel Protein Work for Food Sensitivities Now you may be wondering, how could a simple switch from chicken to kangaroo stop chronic itching and upset stomachs for your dog or cat? To understand this, you must first understand how your pet’s immune system works. In simple terms, a food allergy or sensitivity is an inappropriate case of mistaken identity by your pet’s immune system. When they eat, proteins are broken down into smaller pieces (peptides) as they move through the digestive tract. The immune system constantly monitors these pieces, distinguishing between helpful positive substances (nutrients) and potential threats to their well-being (pathogens). In most pets, this system works without issue, protecting them from possible dangers and keeping them healthy. In a pet with a food sensitivity or allergy, the immune system mistakenly flags a specific, common protein as a threat after being exposed to it repeatedly over time. After it has been flagged, whenever your dog or cat eats that protein again, the immune system launches an inflammatory response to fight off the perceived intruder. This is an allergic reaction. When you introduce a novel protein, you avoid an unwanted immune response. The new protein (like duck or rabbit) has a completely different chemical structure than the trigger protein (like beef or chicken). Because your pet has never encountered this protein before, the immune system has no existing antibodies or “memory cells” built up against it, aka no flags are associated with it. It doesn’t recognize the protein as a threat, so it simply processes it as a safe source of nutrition rather than a threat to be attacked. The real magic of a novel protein diet is the way it gives your pet’s body time to heal. By completely and strictly removing the trigger protein, the inflammation in their gut and skin starts to clear up. The chronic symptoms you see, such as the relentless scratching, the paw chewing, the redness, and the intestinal upset, are all caused by this inflammation. As the body heals, these painful and uncomfortable symptoms begin to resolve. Not only does this give your pet much-needed relief, but the “break” for the digestive tract and immune system allows you to confirm a food allergy and identify the allergen. If your pet’s symptoms disappear as they eat the novel protein diet and reappear when the old protein is reintroduced, you have a definitive answer. Hydrolyzed Diets: A Related Alternative While not strictly a novel protein, it’s worth mentioning that there is a third type of pet diet that veterinarians sometimes recommend when dealing with food sensitivities and allergies: a hydrolyzed protein diet. In these foods, the protein (often chicken or soy) is broken down using water (hydrolyzed) into microscopic pieces, making them so tiny that your pet’s immune system doesn’t recognize them as the whole protein that they are allergic to. They essentially “sneak” the protein past the immune system’s careful monitoring, allowing them to benefit from the nutrition without triggering an unwanted response.

What Are the Best Ways to Exercise My Dog During the Winter Months?

As the temperatures drop and the days get shorter, it’s easy for both us and our pups to fall victim to the “winter slump.” The temptation to curl up on the couch under a warm blanket is hard to resist. Pair that with the struggle of bundling up for a cold walk, and it’s no surprise that many dogs aren’t getting the same level of exercise and enrichment that they enjoy the rest of the year. However, while we may be tempted to hibernate until spring, the reality is that consistent physical and mental activity is not just a fun bonus for our dogs; it’s a “must” for their overall quality of life. Without proper exercise, even the most well-behaved and well-trained dog can quickly develop problem behaviors due to boredom, anxiety, and pent-up energy. More importantly, a lack of activity leads directly to weight gain, muscle atrophy, and other health challenges. To ensure your dog enjoys a long, happy, and healthy life, it is your responsibility to find practical solutions for your dog's needs (both physical and mental) even on the coldest days. Luckily, there are options! Let’s look at a few… Explore the Outdoors Safely Before you head outside to play in the ice and snow, there are a few key safety considerations we need to prioritize with our best friends in mind. Winter introduces some unique risks, and understanding your dog’s specific needs is the first step towards a safe, enjoyable season for all involved. Know Your Dog’s Limits Not all dogs are created equal when it comes to cold tolerance. What one dog may consider a casual brisk walk could introduce dangerous levels of exposure to the elements for another. Looking at our two pups as an example, our Anatolian Shepherd mix, Willow, loves rolling and burying herself in the snow, refusing to come inside for hours on end. Meanwhile, our little guy Lucifer ( German Shepherd/ Australian Cattle Dog) shivers after he’s been out for too long unless he’s properly geared up. Knowing how this applies specifically to YOUR dog is essential. Dogs with shorter coats, little body fat, or small frames (like Greyhounds, Beagles, or Chihuahuas) lose heat more quickly and need more protection. On the other hand, dogs with dense, double coats (like Huskies or Malamutes) are built for the cold. That said, even cold-weather dogs still need to be monitored! Age also influences your dog’s cold tolerance. Both puppies and senior dogs are less efficient at regulating their body temperature. Seniors, in particular, may also have underlying conditions like arthritis that are made worse by cold and dampness, meaning their outdoor play and exercise sessions must be shorter and lower-impact. While what is considered to be “ too cold” will vary by breed, a general guideline is that temperatures below 32°F (0°C) should be met with caution and limited time outside. Once the temperature dips below 20°F (-7°C), being outdoors can be genuinely dangerous for most dogs and should be limited to quick potty breaks only. Winter Gear Checklist Whether you have a dog who is particularly sensitive to the colder temperatures or you’re worried about other winter-related hazards like chemical de-icers and antifreeze, your cold-weather gear can make all the difference. Here are a few items I highly recommend to keep your pup safe and comfortable: Coats and Sweaters: Look for coats that cover the body from neck to tail and provide coverage over the chest and belly, such as the Hurtta Expedition Parka. There are even overall-style coats, like the Ruffwear Vert Coverall, that offer more protection. Choose materials that are waterproof and windproof to prevent conductive heat loss, especially if you live in a wet or windy climate. Booties: The pads of your dog’s paws are highly susceptible to damage from ice, sharp ice chunks, and, most critically, chemical de-icers (salt). Booties are the gold standard for full protection against chemicals and ice balls forming between their toes. You could use traditional boots, like the Canada Pooch Dog Winter Boots, or if you struggle to keep them on, try a suspender style like the Walkee Paws Dog Boot Leggings. Be sure to introduce them slowly and find a pair that fits securely. Paw Balms/Waxes: If you have a dog who simply won’t tolerate boots, paw balms and waxes like Musher’s Secret are a great alternative. They create a protective, moisturizing barrier on your dog’s paw pads. However, they offer no protection against caustic sidewalk salt and require an immediate paw wash when you get home to remove everything safely. Visibility: With the sun going down earlier during the winter months, visibility is a huge concern. Always use reflective gear or incorporate LED lights, using products like the Nite Ize NiteHowl Rechargeable LED Dog Necklace, RC Pets Nova LED Light Harness, or Nite Ize SpotLit Rechargeable Collar Light. Strategic Outdoor Exercise When cold weather limits your time outside, you have to think outside the box to ensure your pup will get the maximum physical and mental benefit from their time while keeping them safe. Here are a few small shifts you can make to your normal outdoor routine during the winter months: Frequency Over Duration: Instead of trying to force one long, uncomfortable walk, plan for two or three brisk, 15–20 minute power walks throughout the day. This will help you ensure your dog is getting the physical activity they need to stay healthy without risking prolonged exposure to the dangerous cold. Optimal Timing: Always aim to walk during the warmest part of the day, which is typically late morning or midday. Even a few extra degrees of warmth when the sun is out can make a significant difference in your dog’s comfort and safety when playing outdoors. Consider the Intensity: To get more out of a short walk, try to incorporate short bursts of activity. Integrate short periods of power walking or quick trotting (if your dog is fit enough) followed by a normal pace. To boost the enrichment opportunities, stop frequently to allow intense sniffing. Sniffing is a huge mental workout that helps satisfy their needs even if their physical activity is limited. Safe Snow Fun: If your dog loves the snow, you can definitely give them the opportunity to enjoy that! Allow for 10-minute bursts of fetch or zoomies, providing high-energy, short-duration activity followed by coming inside to warm up. You can also turn the snow into a fun “find it” style game. Scatter high-value treats in the snow and cue your dog to “Find it!” This engages their sense of smell, making it a great way to burn energy quickly through mental enrichment. Always ensure you prioritize winter safety during your outings. Never allow access to frozen ponds or lakes unless you’re positive the ice is safe, as thin ice poses an immediate, life-threatening risk. Slips on cleared ice can also cause severe injuries. Be sure to use reflective or LED gear if you must walk near dusk or dawn, as low light conditions are far more dangerous for your pup. Always pay attention to your dog’s body language. Immediately head back inside if you notice any of the following warning signs: shivering, repeatedly lifting paws, or an obvious reluctance to keep moving. These red flags mean your dog is too cold or in pain.

Rescue Cat Deckster Helps Special Needs Kittens Learn to Walk

Animals are capable of incredible love and empathy. But sometimes, a special soul steps into a role that is so natural to them that they truly take our breath away. That’s exactly what happened in a viral TikTok video involving a rescue cat named Deckster and two very special kittens. Deckster was found as a young cat living under a deck (hence his name) and recently joined a new family. Little did his adopters know he wasn’t just joining the family; he was preparing to take on a very important role. He has, essentially, named himself the personal physical therapist for two tiny kittens who were struggling to walk. The two 3-week-old kittens were diagnosed with a condition known as “swimmer syndrome.” This condition causes their legs, often the hind legs, to splay out to the side in a posture that reminds many of a frog. It makes it incredibly difficult, and sometimes impossible, for cats with swimmer syndrome to stand or walk properly. In the now-viral video, Deckster is seen lying patiently with the kittens, who are just 9 weeks younger than he is. He observes their movements at first and then gently begins tapping the one kitten’s feet. The text on-screen explains how Deckster is always right there, using his gentle tapping as a soft reminder to the little ones to keep trying to move and reposition their limbs.

How to Tell if Your Dog's Play is Healthy or Heading for Trouble

Play and socialization aren’t just luxuries; they are core components of a happy, well-adjusted life. We know how much joy it brings to watch our dogs run, chase, and wrestle with their friends. Yet the sounds and movements of dog play can be loud, fast, and sometimes intimidating. It often leaves dog parents standing at the sidelines, wondering: “Is that fun, or is that stress?” and “Should I step in right now?”The truth is, distinguishing between a healthy, mutually enjoyable play session and an interaction that’s headed for trouble can feel like trying to decipher a secret canine code.In this post, I am going to share practical, actionable information to help you better understand your dog’s body language during play. I’ll uncover the clear, unmistakable differences between “good play” and “bad play,” a skill that not only prevents fights but also protects your dog’s confidence and ensures they develop the social skills necessary for fun, enjoyable interactions with others. Defining “Good Play”If you’ve ever watched two dogs wrestle and thought, “Wow, that looks rough,” you’re not alone. The truth is that the biggest difference between healthy play and problematic play isn’t the intensity; it’s the quality of the interaction. For a play session to be considered healthy, it needs to include two key elements: reciprocity and self-regulation. When both dogs are on the same page with these concepts, they can have a shared, positive experience.ReciprocityThe most vital sign of good play is reciprocity, meaning both dogs are equally invested and equally enjoying the play session. Think of it like a dance where both partners are taking turns leading and following. A healthy play session should never be entirely one-sided, where one dog is constantly chasing or instigating play while the other is continually on the defensive.Instead, you should see the dogs taking turns. If one dog is doing the chasing, they should soon become the chased. If one dog is playfully pinning the other, they should soon allow themselves to be pinned in return. This constant shifting of roles signals that both dogs are actively consenting and interested in keeping the game going.Another powerful sign of mutual consent is the play bow. This is when a dog lowers their front end while keeping their rear end in the air, as if they are bowing to their playmate. A play bow is a universal canine invitation to play. A confident dog will often use a play bow to initiate an interaction or to punctuate a pause during more intense play. It’s their way of saying, “Just checking that we’re still having fun, right?”Self-RegulationHealthy play requires dogs to have excellent self-control, often called self-handicapping or bite inhibition. Self-handicapping is when a larger, stronger dog deliberately makes themselves more vulnerable so that they are on an even playing field. They are purposefully decreasing their physical advantage to keep the game fair and fun for their playmate. It’s a beautiful display of social intelligence and self-regulation.For example, my two dogs are significantly different in size, with Willow being twice as big as Lucifer. When they play, Willow will roll on her back, slow down mid-run (or stop), or let him pin her down as they wrestle.Equally important is inhibited action. While play biting is a regular part of dog-to-dog play, it must be soft and controlled. A healthy player understands the boundary and will not bite with enough pressure that it causes pain, a yelp, or a sudden change in the other dog’s demeanor. If you see a dog making sharp, uninhibited contact that causes distress, even if it was meant playfully, the interaction is crossing the line into “bad play” territory.Pay Attention to Body Language The most important cue you can look for is your dog’s overall body language. Good play is loose and floppy. When two dogs are having a great time, their muscles are relaxed, their movements are fluid, and they have an open, relaxed posture. Here are some signs of good play you can watch out for: Their tail wags will be wide, sweeping motions or circular “helicopter” tails. Their mouths will often be slightly open in a soft, “smiling” look. Their eyes will appear soft, not pinched or staring. Even during an intense wrestling match, their bodies should move freely without tension or rigidity. If you can see the effortlessness and ease in their movements, you can usually relax knowing that your pup is enjoying themselves. The Warning Signs of “Bad Play” While we want our dogs to have fun, we must also learn to recognize when play shifts from a positive experience to one rooted in stress, fear, frustration, or even aggression. The moment their actions stop being reciprocal and start being one-sided, you need to pay close attention. “Bad play” isn’t always overt aggression; sometimes it’s simply a lack of consent that pushes a dog into uncomfortable territory or increased anxiety in one dog. The Shift from Fun to Stress One of the first signs that play is heading south is the disappearance of that loose, floppy body language I just discussed. When a dog becomes stressed, their body posture changes dramatically. This is the moment to step back and evaluate whether the situation is still safe for your pup, preparing to intervene if necessary. Keep an eye open for the following: Stiffening and Freezing: This is the biggest visual cue. The dog’s body becomes rigid, their legs straighten, and their movements become jerky rather than fluid. They may momentarily freeze, which is a sign of tension, not relaxation. Hard Stare: A playful gaze is soft and darting; a stare is fixed, intense, and often accompanied by a lowered head. This is called a “hard eye” and is a clear sign of serious intent or discomfort. Vocalization Changes: Playful barks are usually high-pitched and bouncy. Watch out for deep, guttural, or constant low growls, or sharp, high-pitched yelps that signal your pup is experiencing pain or fear, not just excitement.

New Research Reveals Dog Diversity Dates Back to the Ice Age

From the adorable little Pug snuggling on the couch to the towering Irish Wolfhound patrolling the yard, there is no questioning the incredible physical diversity of today’s domestic dog. It has been a commonly held belief among the dog-loving community that this variety was a recent development, resulting from the creation of modern dog breeds. Throughout the years, breeders and dog enthusiasts have focused on intensive, aesthetic-focused selective breeding to meet the breed requirements established by the formation of kennel clubs and the development of structured dog breeds as we know them today. So, are these differences the result of a few hundred years of human intervention aimed at creating dogs with specific looks and features? New research suggests there may be more to it than we realize! The research, published in the journal Science, suggests that the fundamental differences seen in dogs, specifically in their skulls, date back to the tail end of the last Ice Age, at least 11,000 years ago. Scientists examined a massive collection of 643 skulls, including those of modern dogs, ancient dogs, modern wolves, and ancient wolves, covering roughly 50,000 years of canine history. They found that the emergence of recognizable domestic dog features and significant variation between dogs appeared soon after they branched out from their wolf ancestors. “During domestication, dog skulls became proportionally shorter and wider compared with those of wolves,” explained bioarchaeologist and study co-lead author Carly Ameen of the University of Exeter in England. The dog was the very first animal domesticated by people. While ancient dogs didn’t possess the extreme facial features of a modern Bulldog, Ameen notes that dogs from the Mesolithic and Neolithic periods already showed about half the skull variation we see in all the different breeds today. But back then, they weren’t picking dogs based on how cute they looked; they were choosing them strictly for what they could do, their function and purpose. The relationship between humans and dogs was purely a working partnership for millennia. Dogs fulfilled crucial roles, including serving as hunting partners, herders, guards, and sled pullers. Early human societies selected dogs based on what they could best do, and with those practical needs came related physical features. For example, a shorter, stronger snout performed better for gripping, while a longer muzzle was better for tracking. It was only in recent centuries that the way dogs are viewed in society shifted. As dogs became more integrated into our lives beyond their functional roles, preferences driven by status and appearance began to take over. As breed standards were formalized, these differences intensified and grew into the dog breeds we recognize today. What does all this mean for us as modern-day dog parents? The research is a powerful reminder that the dog sleeping at our feet (or in our bed) is the result of a vast history based on function and practicality. Their unique and adorable appearance is not just a product of 200 years of focused breeding; it’s a testament to an 11,000-year-old story of evolution, where their physical form adapted to help humans survive and thrive. They were man's best friend back then and continue to be today. Join the PetGuide community. Get the latest pet news and product recommendations by subscribing to our newsletter here.

Tips for Soothing Itchy Skin in Dogs

Seeing your best friend relentlessly scratching without finding any relief is heartbreaking, isn’t it? When your pup is constantly chewing at their paws, shaking their ears, or rubbing against the furniture, it feels like an uphill battle.Itching isn’t just an annoyance; chronic itching, or pruritus, is a painful and exhausting experience for your pup. It can disrupt their sleep, cause significant skin damage, and dramatically reduce their overall quality of life. Finding the source of the itch can be complex, as it may be triggered by a wide range of factors, from microscopic parasites to environmental sensitivities. But identifying and addressing the cause is necessary for your dog’s comfort.This post is a comprehensive guide to bringing your dog much-needed relief. I’ll share the most common underlying causes, share effective and immediate soothing home remedies you can safely try today, and help you identify when it’s time to reach out to your vet for professional diagnosis and treatment.My goal is to equip you with the info you need to stop the itching and help your pup feel comfortable and at peace once again.Understanding the Common Causes of Itching Before you can truly soothe the irritation your dog is experiencing, you must understand the underlying cause. Simply treating the symptom (the scratch) will only act as a quick fix, failing to offer the long-term relief you’d prefer for your pup. Pruritus is rarely an issue of simple dry skin; it is usually a manifestation of an inflammatory response triggered by one of these key categories: Parasites Parasites are often the simplest causes to diagnose and treat, so it makes sense for them to be the first culprits to rule out.First, consider fleas and ticks. Even if you don’t see any live bugs, your dog choice be suffering from a severe reaction. Many dogs develop a condition called Flea Allergy Dermatitis, where they are severely allergic to the saliva of a single flea bite. The itching is often most concentrated around the base of the tail, hind legs, and inner thighs. If you aren’t already, commit to year-round parasite prevention recommended by your veterinarian to avoid this irritation. Next, microscopic mites that cause mange are also a possibility. Sarcoptic Mange is intensely itchy and highly contagious, while Demodectic Mange is caused by mites normally present on the skin that overgrow when the dog’s immune system is weak. Both conditions require a visit to the vet for skin scrapes in order to get a definitive diagnosis and prescription treatment. Allergies Allergies are, by far, the most common cause of chronic itching. Unfortunately, they can also be one of the most complicated causes. The key difference between humans and dogs is how we react: you get a stuffy nose and sneezing; they get itchy, irritated skin. Environmental Allergies (Atopic Dermatitis) This is the most common diagnosis for chronic itching. Your dog is reacting to triggers in their environment, similar to seasonal allergies in people. Common triggers of environmental or seasonal allergies in dogs include pollens (trees, weeds, grasses), house dust mites, and molds. These are often inhaled or absorbed directly through the skin. Instead of scratching their whole body, dogs with environmental allergies often focus on specific areas, such as licking, chewing, and biting at the paws; rubbing their face and muzzle on carpets; and suffering from recurring ear infections (redness, odor, waxy discharge). If your dog is miserable only at certain times of year, environmental allergies are likely. Food Allergies True food allergies are less common than environmental allergies, but they can cause severe, non-seasonal itching. This happens when a dog’s immune system mistakenly identifies a protein source as a threat. The most common culprits are proteins, usually beef, chicken, dairy, and wheat. The only reliable way to diagnose a food allergy is through a veterinary-supervised elimination diet (sometimes called a food trial). An elimination diet involves feeding a specialized, limited-ingredient, or novel-protein diet for 8 to 12 weeks. You cannot diagnose a food allergy by simply changing to a “grain-free” or “natural” food without a structured trial. Secondary Infections & Other IssuesWhen a dog scratches, licks, or chews, they compromise their natural skin barrier. This allows bacteria and yeast to move in, creating a nasty, itchy cycle that dramatically increases the discomfort. Yeast Infections are almost always a secondary result of an underlying allergy or immune issue. Yeast thrives in warm, moist, and damaged skin. You’ll notice a distinctive musty or cheesy odor, greasy skin texture, redness, and dark, thick skin, especially in the armpits, paws, and ear canals. Bacterial infections manifest in several ways. Pyoderma is a bacterial skin infection that often shows up as small red bumps, pustules, or scabs. Hot spots are bacterial infections that appear suddenly, spread quickly, and cause intense pain. They are red, moist, and often oozing, typically caused by the dog obsessively licking one area after a minor irritant. Finding the root cause, whether it’s a parasite, a pollen, or a protein, is the single most important step in providing true, long-lasting relief. While you work with your veterinarian to find that answer, there are steps you can take to soothe the immediate discomfort. Immediate Soothing & Home RemediesWhile you should always speak with a veterinarian for a proper diagnosis when dealing with chronic itching, these safe, at-home methods can provide your dog with much-needed immediate relief and help manage minor irritation. An Important Note: Home remedies offer temporary soothing; they do not cure the underlying problem. If the itching is severe, causing open wounds, or persists despite your attempts to relieve it, you must see your veterinarian ASAP. Always consult your vet before introducing new supplements or topical treatments.Topical Relief for Itching These methods physically cleanse the skin, reduce inflammation, and restore moisture. The gold standard for immediate topical relief is an oatmeal bath. Finely ground oatmeal contains compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that help calm irritated skin. You should use a colloidal oatmeal shampoo specifically formulated for dogs, or grind plain, unflavored oatmeal into a very fine powder and mix it into a lukewarm bath. Let your dog soak for 10 to 15 minutes to ensure the water reaches all the affected areas. Rinse thoroughly afterward to prevent any residue from causing more irritation. If yeast or bacteria are suspected, a medicated or therapeutic shampoo is a better choice. Look for veterinary-approved products containing ingredients like chlorhexidine (antibacterial) or ketoconazole (antifungal). Follow the instructions on the label, which usually involve contact for 5 to 10 minutes before rinsing for the active ingredients to work. Since paws are major itch targets for dogs with environmental allergies, specialized paw soaks are extremely helpful. You can fill a small basin with plain, cool water or a very dilute solution of water and an antiseptic (like chlorhexidine wash). Soak the paws for 5 minutes, focusing on the spaces between the toes, then pat them dry completely.

Accident Proof Your Dog Walks Now with These Simple Leash Accessories

We don’t head out on a walk with our pups looking for danger, but the truth is that the unexpected happens. It could be a sudden, deep cut on your dog’s paw from stepping on broken glass, a tick burrowed deep into your dog’s skin, or the catastrophic moment a cheap leash clip snaps when a squirrel darts across your path. In that split second of panic, you’ll realize that preparedness isn’t overkill. Better still, let’s ensure you’re prepared without having to face the challenges.Your dog’s leash plays a key role on walks, and I’m not just referring to keeping them safely tethered. It’s your “base camp,” with the ability to carry everything you need from emergency first-aid to critical safety gear right there, immediately accessible.In this article, I’m going to talk about the non-negotiable, clip-on accessories that I carry on every walk. These are items that tackle big problems and help me keep my dogs safe. Additionally, I’ll share some leash styles that are better suited to carry this gear and help make your next walk that much safer. The goal is simple: to make sure you’re ready for anything, so you can spend less time worrying and more time enjoying your time together.“Clip-and-Go” Essentials When you think about leash preparedness, consider the items you carry every day. Just as you don’t leave the house without your keys, wallet, and phone, your dog’s leash needs its own collection of essential tools. These are small, lightweight accessories that clip directly onto a D-ring or an accessory loop, ensuring they are with you on every single walk. After all, an emergency doesn’t check your calendar and schedule itself when it’s convenient. The First-Aid TrioThe most critical moments on any dog-friendly outing are when your pup sustains a minor injury or encounters something potentially hazardous to their health. The following three items on your leash can help you provide immediate care and stabilize the situation until you can get home or reach your veterinarian. The Tick Remover Tool Ticks are more than just a nuisance; they are carriers of serious diseases that could put your pup at risk. If you spot a tick while out and about, the priority is to remove it quickly, completely, and safely. Trying to pinch or squeeze a tick with your fingers can cause the tick to regurgitate infected fluids back into your dog’s bloodstream, and household tweezers can easily be lost in your pocket. Instead, consider carrying a leash-friendly tick remover. Look for the small, v-notched plastic tools or specialized metal tick removers designed for this purpose, like the classic Tick Key. These tools easily slide under the tick and allow you to lift it out with a simple twist or pull. It makes it easier to ensure the entire head is removed, reducing the risk of further complications. Because these tools are so small and lightweight, attaching one directly to your leash with a mini-carabiner means you never have to scramble for one. Paw and Wound Care Mini-KitWhether it’s a sharp rock on the trail or an unseen piece of broken glass on the sidewalk, a paw injury is one of the most common mid-walk incidents. My boy Lucifer suffered a small cut on his foot on a recent hike, and we don’t even know the cause. When faced with a cut, your role as a loving pet parent is to provide temporary stabilization. The priority is to stop the bleeding, keep the wound clean until you return home, and prevent your dog from licking it or further aggravating it. This, of course, requires some key first-aid supplies. You don’t need a full trauma kit, just a compact, sealed tube or case small enough to clip to the leash. I use a small zippered treat pouch for ours. In it, we keep two small, sterile gauze pads (for cleaning and coverage), a small roll of self-adhering vet wrap, a couple of antiseptic wipes, and a single disposable bootie, like those from PawZ, to keep any wounds or bandages dry.Emergency MuzzleThis is perhaps the most misunderstood piece of safety gear, yet it can make all the difference in an emergency. Even the sweetest, most friendly dog can react to intense pain or overwhelming fear by biting. For this reason, I recommend all dog parents keep some form of muzzle on hand. If your dog is in pain, quickly putting a muzzle on them lets you examine and treat the injury without risking yourself or an innocent passerby.In most cases, a simple snout loop or lightweight, fabric muzzle clipped to your leash setup would be enough. If you do have a dog that is a little “spicy,” a more sturdy muzzle (we use a vinyl muzzle from Mia’s Muzzles for my fear-reactive boy) may be necessary. Don’t forget to take time to do muzzle training in advance, so you aren’t adding more stress to an already stressful situation by throwing on a muzzle they aren’t accustomed to. Safety, Visibility, and Comfort GearBeyond the immediate medical needs, a good preparedness system addresses ongoing safety and the simple necessities your dog may need during your walk.LED Safety Light or Blinker If your walks extend into the early morning or evening, visibility is an essential consideration. Accidents often happen because a driver simply doesn’t see you or your dog until it’s too late. Consider clipping a small, bright, USB-rechargeable clip-on LED light to your leash. These lights offer flashing or steady modes. Even better, attach one to the leash to make yourself visible, and another to your dog’s collar or harness. Make it part of your routine to check the battery before every low-light walk. Hydration and Comfort Essentials Even a short walk can lead to dehydration, especially in warmer weather or for an energetic dog. A few ounces of water can make a huge difference for your dog. If you’re hiking in town where you know there are accessible water fountains, or are carrying water in your backpack, all you’ll need is a collapsible water bowl. The most common are the silicone dishes that fold up flat and usually come equipped with a small carabiner to clip directly to your leash or backpack. Personally, I love the packable design of the HydraPak Rover Dog Bowl. For those who prefer hiking in more rural areas without potable water sources, you may prefer to carry a travel-friendly dog water bottle with a built-in bowl, like the Lesotc Portable Dog Water Bottle. Poop Bag DispenserWhile this might seem like a given, I feel like I can’t make this list without stressing the importance of a poop bag dispenser. More importantly, a reliable dispenser that attaches securely to your leash. Some high-end dispensers also have a feature that holds a used, tied-off bag until you reach a garbage to dispose of it, keeping your hands free and clean. Alternatively, they can be purchased separately to add to your gear.

Is Catnip Bad for Dogs?

Have you recently noticed your dog sniffing around your cat’s favorite toy? If so, you may find yourself wondering why your dog is drawn to something clearly designed for cats. After all, it’s called “cat” nip for a reason, right?This harmless-looking herb drives our cats into a frenzy of rolling, drooling, and playful craziness. But what happens if your dog ingests the leafy green? Does it cause the same “high”? Is it even safe? And, perhaps most importantly, could the herb that’s famous for making cats go wild actually offer any potential benefits for our pups? After all, we want to give our dogs the happiest lives possible, and that sometimes means exploring options outside of the usual dog-specific products.In this article, I’ll answer these questions and more.What Exactly is Catnip?You’ve likely seen catnip mentioned a million times when it comes to cats’ toys, but what exactly is it? To understand how it interacts with your dog, we first need to know exactly what it is. It’s much more than just a novelty for the kitties in our lives; it’s an herb with a long history, even in human tradition.Catnip, scientifically known as Nepeta cataria, is a perennial herb in the mint family. It’s native to parts of Europe, Asia, and the Middle East, but it now grows readily around the world. In fact, you can likely buy catnip seeds in your local garden center. Historically, long before it was known for entertaining housecats, humans used it in herbal teas for its calming and mild sedative properties. It was also sometimes used to improve digestion. The reason catnip attracts so much attention centers on one specific volatile oil: Nepetalactone. This oil is contained within the leaves, stems, and seed pods of the plant.In cats, it’s the nepetalactone that triggers the short-term neurological reaction that we see, aka the crazy burst of energy that they get when they get near it. However, as I’ll explain in the next section, the canine system processes the chemical very differently. It’s unlikely to start zooming around the room after a sniff.Is Catnip Safe for Dogs?Returning to the original question of this article, is catnip safe for your dog? If your pup decides to tear apart a cat toy (as my girl Willow has done several times), should you be worried?When discussing the safety of any substance, we need to address both the potential for toxicity and the risk of discomfort for your pup. While the latter may not be life-threatening, we all want to take steps to keep our dogs feeling comfortable!Catnip is Generally Non-Toxic to DogsFirst and foremost, you can breathe a sigh of relief if your dog has recently tested the waters with the herb. According to organizations like the ASPCA and the Pet Poison Helpline, catnip is not listed as a poisonous substance that can cause severe or life-threatening reactions in dogs. If your dog nibbles a stray leaf or manages to sample the dried herb while chewing a cat toy, there is no need to panic. The plant will not poison them.Understanding “Non-Toxic” vs. “Harmless”While catnip isn’t poisonous, that doesn’t mean your dog should be allowed to eat a whole patch. It’s crucial that dog parents understand the difference between a substance being “non-toxic” (aka not poisonous) and “harmless” or safe to eat without any consequences.The risk associated with catnip exposure centers almost entirely on gastrointestinal problems. The digestive systems of our dogs are not designed to ingest large quantities of plant matter. If they eat too much of any herb or green, including catnip, it can irritate their digestive tract.The most common side effects of eating excessive amounts of plant matter are mild and short-lived, such as temporary vomiting, diarrhea, or general stomach discomfort. Generally, your dog will start to feel better as soon as the material passes. However, if your dog passes the plants and is still showing signs of discomfort, contact your veterinarian, as there may be a bigger problem to address.The Hidden Hazard of the Toy ItselfNow that we’ve clarified that eating some catnip from chewing a cat toy isn’t going to cause any serious harm, there is a danger associated with this situation that I want to highlight. Chewing a non-edible item (like a cat toy) can lead to trouble!Catnip toys are designed to be light, fluffy, and enticing for cats. But they are not durable for a powerful canine jaw, especially if your pup is a power chewer like our two! If they ingest a chunk of stuffing, the fabric or plastic pieces, or even a whole catnip mouse (yes, it happens), it can create a serious choking hazard or, worse, a risk of life-threatening obstruction.Always supervise your dog around cat toys if they share their home with a feline sibling. Immediately take away the toys if you see your pup starting to chew on them.The Impact of Catnip on DogsWe’re all familiar with the hilarious, erratic behavior you might see from your cat after being exposed to catnip, but what about dogs? If your pup does manage to ingest a little catnip, you may be surprised. The key difference lies in the way dogs and cats process the active ingredient, nepetalactone.Unlike cats, dogs don’t get “high” on catnip. Cats possess specialized receptors, particularly in the roof of their mouth, that are sensitive to nepetalactone. This triggers a strong, euphoric response when the scent is inhaled, leading to the reaction we commonly associate with the herb.On the other hand (or paw), dogs lack these sensitive receptors. While they can smell the herb, their brains do not process the nepetalactone in a way that causes the typical stimulation. Instead, they respond when they ingest catnip (either the leaves or the dried herb). For our pups, this acts as a mild sedative or relaxant. It is the same effect that humans expect when they historically brewed catnip tea to calm their nerves or help them sleep.When consumed, catnip has a mild depressant effect on a dog’s central nervous system, helping to reduce general restlessness or anxiety. The response is often very subtle, so don’t expect your dog to suddenly collapse into a tranquil slumber. Instead, you can expect your pup to show a slight easing of tension or an increase in general calmness.While rare, it is worth noting that a very small percentage of dogs may experience the opposite, showing a mild stimulating effect. Always monitor your dog carefully during their first few exposures to see how their unique system processes the herb. If you notice increased agitation or hyperactivity, stop using it.However, for the vast majority of dogs, the primary effect is either a mild calming one or none at all.

New Study Reveals Some Dogs Are Genuinely Toy-Addicted

The terms “ball junkie” and “chewie addict” are quite popular among dog parents, loving nicknames for our dogs who live and breathe their favorite toy. I’m guilty of using the first to refer to my ball-loving pup, Lucifer, on many occasions! We laugh it off, but what if there was a deeper truth to the joke?According to a new study published in the journal Scientific Reports, those adorable personality quirks may be backed by science!The research found that some highly motivated dogs demonstrate “addiction-like tendencies” towards toys. They are behaviors that mirror those seen in humans dealing with addictions like gambling.Previously, conversations were often written off as anthropomorphism, which Merriam-Webster defines as “an interpretation of what is not human or personal in terms of human or personal characteristics.” It means viewing our dogs' actions through the lens of human emotions and thought processes. However, this is the first study to apply the accepted scientific criteria associated with human addiction to our canine friends.To explore this, researchers recruited 105 highly play-motivated dogs and their parents, then put them through a series of 14 tests to measure their fixation on toys. Each test was created to highlight and observe different scientific criteria for addiction in the pups.In one test, after a minute of play, the dog’s favorite toy was placed on a shelf where the pup couldn’t reach it. The dog parents were then instructed to try to engage their pup in other activities. The researchers watched their reactions, noting that some dogs responded with behaviors showing that they were unable to shift their focus away from the toy, such as repeatedly spinning, jumping, or barking towards where it had been put away.Another test required the dogs to choose between a secured favorite toy and a nearby food puzzle. Two of the dogs who participated were so intensely motivated to reach their toy that they became destructive, breaking through the box that held it.The study found that 33 of the participating dogs displayed concerning addiction-like tendencies.One interesting finding was that shepherd breeds, such as German Shepherds and Belgian Shepherds, had the highest addiction scores. This suggests a genetic component to this behavior, as these breeds were historically bred for high focus and specialized working tasks like police work and livestock protection.For pet parents who are focused on their best friend’s quality of life (which I’m sure is most of you reading an article like this), the study offers some interesting findings that could help us better meet their needs.Lead author Alja Mazzini noted that dogs with high addiction-like scores “really can’t relax after the toys are out of reach or gone.” More concerning is the fact they may continue to play even when injured, refuse to take a break, or skip drinking water. These are all behaviors that pose a real threat to a dog’s health and immediate well-being.While the study is exploratory and further research is needed to draw solid conclusions, it offers insight into the minds of our toy-loving pups. Being aware of the risks associated with this level of toy fixation, we can make changes to our playtime routines to keep their safety in mind.Join the PetGuide community. Get the latest pet news and product recommendations by subscribing to our newsletter here.